Reflections on a Walk through the Markets of Rome

As a tourist to Rome, you may focus on the big sites. I am sure you want to visit the Vatican City and see Saint Peter's and the Sistine Chapel, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon. But what makes Italy different from other cities? The history is great, but learn about the culture.

By walking through the morning markets in Rome, you will see an Italian housewife buying groceries for the day and the Italian businessman buying fruit on his way to work. You are guaranteed a struggle between your limited Italian skills and the complete lack of English of the vendors. One thing I was the most sorry about of my time in Rome was the little Italian I picked up in the end. Force yourself to learn some by shopping in morning markets.

The market in Testaccio and the market in the Campo de'Fiori offer perfect chances. You can also find some great deals on jewelry and clothes. Take the time out of site seeing from the normal tourist spots and visit these markets which are off the between path. You will not be sorry.

Directions to Markets in Rome

To visit the three maps I discussed in my previous blog post, just follow the map above with these directions:
-Begin at the Piramide Metro Station
-Walk down Via Marmorata past Viale M. Gelsomini
-The Mercato di Testaccio will be on your left down Via G. B. Bodoni
-Walk back to Via Marmorata and take a left, heading towards the Tiber River
-Cross the bridge and walk through the Piazza Porta Portese
-Walk up Via di Porta Portese which becomes Via Induno
-Turn right onto Viale Trastevere
-Make your first left onto Via Emilio Morosini
-Take the first right on Via di San Cosimato
-You will run into Piazza San Cosimato where the market is held
-Continue up Via di San Cosimato and through Piazza San Calisto
-Turn right on Via Arco San Calisto
-Make the first left on Via San Calisto
-Walk through Piazza San Apollonia and up Via del Moro
-Walk through Piazza Trilussa and make a left on Lungotevere
-Cross the first bridge Ponte Sisto
-Walk straight down Via del Pettinari which will become Via Arco del Monte
-You will run into Via dei Giubbonari where you can turn left
-You will run into the Campo de'Fiori and the final market

Markets in Rome

Rome has a number of open-air markets sprinkled throughout the city. On the left you will see the market in the Campo de'Fiori. This market offers its shoppers a variety of fresh fruit, meat, poultry, fish, and vegetables. Make sure you check out the stands selling fresh garden salad mixes and the ones selling rice, dried fruit, and candy. At the far end of the market, you will find a beautiful flower stand. A clothes stand also offers very discounted souvenir items.

The Mercato di Testaccio is a covered market. The outside is lined with cheap clothes and shoes, but inside you will find what a number of local shoppers come to buy. Meat and cheese stands line the outside, while fruit and vegetable stand offer shoppers everything they are looking for. Make sure to try the different bread stands for some freshly baked bread.

The market in Piazza San Cosimato is known for its salami and cheese selections. Unlike the market in the Campo de'Fiori, the stands in this open air market are permanent structures. Fruit and vegetable stands can also be found here.

When you are planning to visit these markets, take into consideration that they are only open from 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM Monday through Saturday.

Villa Farnesina

Located in the central district of Trastevere, the Villa Farnesina may not look like much from the back. But the lucky traveler is the one who gives the building a chance and heads inside. This villa was built in 1508 by Agostino Chigi.

Visitors to the villa will experience frescoes completed by Baldassarre Peruzzi, Sebastiano del Piombo, and Raphael. When visiting the villa, make sure to see the Triumph of Galatea by Raphael which is a painting of the sea nymph Galatea one of the fifty daughters of the god Nereus. Visitors to the villa will also get to see the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche. The model used in this piece on the left was the mistress of Agostino Chigi.

Visitors to the villa will be enticed by the formal gardens still adorning the front of the mansion. During the Renaissance time period, parties and plays were held here.

I have spent my time here living in Trastevere and visitors to the villa will be pleased with the small bars and trattorias lining the streets. A trip to the Villa Farnesina is a must-see for fresco lovers.

This information can be found in the 2007 Eyewitness Guide to Rome published by Dorling Kindersley. Additional information can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Farnesina.

Villa D'Este

Over this past weekend, I made the trip outside the city of Rome to visit Tivoli. I went with the intentions of seeing Hadrian's Villa, a site I previously blogged about. I was only making a day trip with just enough time to visit this villa. I expected Tivoli to be a very small town with not much to do besides visiting Hadrian's Villa.
After a pleasant train ride through the mountains surrounding Rome, I reached Tivoli. I wanted to explore the sight because of the waterfall I had seen on the way. I found out that there was much more than Hadrian's Villa in Tivoli.

The most visited sight in the town is the Villa D'Este. If you are looking for a serene escape from the city, look no further than Tivoli. You will be enchanted by the river flowing lazily by and the sweet smell of the air.

Once you get to the Villa D'Este, you will learn that this old Benedictine convent has unforgettable gardens and fountains. The convent was converted to a palace in the 16th century and the luxury of this lifestyle can still be found in the gardens today. Bernini lovers will be pleasantly surprised to find his Fontana del Bicchierone. The picture above shows the Terrace of 100 Fountains, one of the many fountains in the villa.

Between the train ride through the countryside and suburbs of Rome and the picturesque views of the valley below Tivoli, this day trip will be well worth your time away from Rome and the small admission fee.

The picture above was taken from the following website, http://www.villadestetivoli.info/gall_01_e.htm. At this site you will also be able to find out more information about the Villa. You could also check out the Eyewitness Guide to Rome published by Dorling Kindersley in 2007.

San Clemente

An important tourist destination is San Clemente, which can easily be found from the Termini Train Station. To get there, come out of the station and take a sharp left on Via Cavour. On this road, you will pass San Maria Maggiore. Continue walking until you see the Via dei Annibaldi and turn left here. Straight ahead you will see the Colosseum. When the road ends, take a left on Via N. Salvi. Ahead of you, you will see Piazza de Ludus Magnus. Walk past Via Labicana to the next street Via dei San Giovanni in Laterano. San Clemente will be on your left.

In this church, you will be able to see the Paschal candlestick which is an example of Cosmati work. In this church you will be able to walk through the catacombs. Make sure you also see the Apse Mosaic and the 11th century frescoes while you are here.

Finding the Campo de'Fiori

When you reach the Termini Station in Rome, come out and face Piazza Cinquecento. Take a slight left and walk down Viale Einuadi. You will walk up to a circle containing the Piazza Della Repubblica. Take the Via Nazionale which you will find on the left of the circle. Follow the Via Nazionale until it ends and take a slight right down the Via IV Novembre. While you are walking down this road, you will pass the Galleria Colonna on the right. Continue down this road and it will become the Via del Plebiscito. On this road, you will pass the Galleria Doria Pamphilj on your right. Follow Via del Plebiscito until you see the tram. Turn left here on Via Arenula and look for Via del Giubbonari. Take a right here and follow this road until you run into the Campo de'Fiori.

When you get to the Campo de'Fiori, you will see a statue in the middle dedicated to Giordano Bruno, a martyr of science. If you get to the piazza early enough, you will be able to walk through a market containing fresh fruit, meat, and cheeses. This piazza is a very popular spot for nightlife among American students.

Hadrian's Villa

In a small group of students including Toni Conti, Carley Bria, Cole Kitchen, and Courtney Marshall, along with the help of Mike Tumolo, we mapped out the route to get to Hadrian’s Villa.

Go to the Termini train station in Rome. Enter the upper part of the station and locate ticket machines. Search for the train to Tivoli. Once you get to Tivoli Station, locate local bus number 4 which you can take to Hadrian’s Villa. These directions can also be found in the Eyewitness Guide of Rome on page 269.

One of the most striking and best preserved parts of the Villa is the pool and an artificial grotto which were named Canopus Serapeum (the Emperor’s dining table). The Maritime Theater is a circular building within Ionic marble peristyle. This was a private retreat for the Emperor. A circular moat encloses an island where the theater is located. Finally, be sure to visit the Small and Great Thermae (baths) which are well preserved areas for public and private bathing. The small ones were used more privately for the emperors while the larger baths were used for visitors to the Villa. Check out this website for a number of virtual walk throughs of the Villa: http://www.italyguides.it/us/roma/hadrian_s_villa/hadrian_s_villa.htm