Recapturing My Time in Roma

How do I start my last blog post from Rome? How did I get here and where did the past seven weeks go? I would love to know. They have been packed full of travel experiences, churches, schoolwork, and learning about Roman culture. Thank you for completing the journey with me.

If you are just stumbling upon my page, enjoy reading about three important aspects of Rome. Learn about how an American feels in Rome and the U.S. products available here. Learn about one piazza, the Campo de'Fiori. Learn about wine and then other Roman traditions. Watch me embrace my time in Rome and watch my appreciation for the new culture grow.

If you are wondering where I am now, I am working on finishing my undergraduate degree in Communication Arts and Sciences. I am spending time with my family and friends. Most importantly, I am taking my dog Marley on adventures and giving him a life any dog or human alike would be jealous of. If only he could have come to Italy. He may not be well trained like the dogs here, but he would have loved coming into stores and restaurants with me.

Here's to you, Rome. Thank you for the memories. Thank you for allowing me to grow as a person. And most importantly, thank you for letting me feel at home in your piazzas, side streets, and gelaterias. I will not soon forget my time here.

One last time in the Campo de'Fiori

I have been to the Campo de'Fiori a number of times in my seven weeks in Rome. I have suggested visiting the market, looking for historical sights, and stopping in for a few good sandwiches. But if you have some extra time, make sure to get some gelato in the piazza. There is a chain store called Blue Ice on a street a few meters off of the piazza. I did not try the chain while I was here because I wanted to learn more about local culture. If you are looking for a nice treat on one of the sweltering days Rome has to offer, try the bar on the opposite side of Blue Ice.

The store is small but offers most of the flavors you will find in the rest of the small gelato stores in Rome. This one is special because it offers a lively piazza to sit in while you enjoy your treat. If I could make a recommendation, try lemon and strawberry or limone e fragola. The fruity flavors are refreshing on a hot day.

I cannot believe today was my last experience in the Campo de'Fiori. I went to the market in the morning with a few friends and got one more discounted Italia jacket for a special student discount. But I am sure all visitors can talk there way down from the suggested retail price of fifteen Euros to ten Euros. Make sure you take in the small artsy shops. Go in the food stores with specialty meat, cheese and wine. If you are up for it, try out the nightlife at the Drunken Ship or Sloppy Sam's but maybe not more than once. Try a different place for food to avoid the tourist menu. Take everything in while you can with your time in Rome. Don't waste a second. There are things for you to discover in everything piazza and each small winding side street.

Directions to Markets in Rome

To visit the three maps I discussed in my previous blog post, just follow the map above with these directions:
-Begin at the Piramide Metro Station
-Walk down Via Marmorata past Viale M. Gelsomini
-The Mercato di Testaccio will be on your left down Via G. B. Bodoni
-Walk back to Via Marmorata and take a left, heading towards the Tiber River
-Cross the bridge and walk through the Piazza Porta Portese
-Walk up Via di Porta Portese which becomes Via Induno
-Turn right onto Viale Trastevere
-Make your first left onto Via Emilio Morosini
-Take the first right on Via di San Cosimato
-You will run into Piazza San Cosimato where the market is held
-Continue up Via di San Cosimato and through Piazza San Calisto
-Turn right on Via Arco San Calisto
-Make the first left on Via San Calisto
-Walk through Piazza San Apollonia and up Via del Moro
-Walk through Piazza Trilussa and make a left on Lungotevere
-Cross the first bridge Ponte Sisto
-Walk straight down Via del Pettinari which will become Via Arco del Monte
-You will run into Via dei Giubbonari where you can turn left
-You will run into the Campo de'Fiori and the final market

Markets in Rome

Rome has a number of open-air markets sprinkled throughout the city. On the left you will see the market in the Campo de'Fiori. This market offers its shoppers a variety of fresh fruit, meat, poultry, fish, and vegetables. Make sure you check out the stands selling fresh garden salad mixes and the ones selling rice, dried fruit, and candy. At the far end of the market, you will find a beautiful flower stand. A clothes stand also offers very discounted souvenir items.

The Mercato di Testaccio is a covered market. The outside is lined with cheap clothes and shoes, but inside you will find what a number of local shoppers come to buy. Meat and cheese stands line the outside, while fruit and vegetable stand offer shoppers everything they are looking for. Make sure to try the different bread stands for some freshly baked bread.

The market in Piazza San Cosimato is known for its salami and cheese selections. Unlike the market in the Campo de'Fiori, the stands in this open air market are permanent structures. Fruit and vegetable stands can also be found here.

When you are planning to visit these markets, take into consideration that they are only open from 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM Monday through Saturday.

Another Lunch Recommendation

One thing I find myself missing in Rome is tuna fish. I have been to a number of bars that serve plain tuna on a roll, but I really miss tuna with mayonnaise and lettuce and tomato.

I have blogged about the Forno bakery in Campo de'Fiori in the past and I finally took some time to go there for lunch. I was thrilled when I saw a sandwich stuffed with tuna fish salad! Other choices included salami sandwiches and small pizzas. Everything looked delicious, but I had to satisfy my craving for tuna. It was a good choice and I recommend visiting the Forno if you are also having a similar craving.

I would also recommend trying one or two of their tarts. I selected a small blueberry tart and was quite satisfied. You will be even happier to know that I spent less than four Euros on this filling meal which seems like a steal.

The next time you need lunch on the go, consider visiting the Campo de'Fiori.

Lunch in the Campo de'Fiori

When you are walking around Rome and are looking for a nice lunch spot, try the Campo de'Fiori. All along the streets of Rome you will find a number of panini or pizza shops, but if you are in the mood for a different sandwich try Ristocampo.

This little sandwich shop lets you choose the kind of meat and cheese you would like along with a number of vegetables. Suggested sandwiches are on the wall, or you can make up your own. It's a nice break from the pre-made sandwiches you will find elsewhere in the city. Prices range from four to six euros.

Theatre of Pompey

In the Campo de'Fiori today, the Palazzo Pio can be seen facing the Piazza del Biscione. This palace was built over the ruins of the Theatre of Pompey. If you would like to see these remains, ask at the Pancrazio restaurant.

The theater was built in 55 B.C. and was Rome's first stone-built theater. Before this time, theaters were made of wood and were considered more temporary structures. In order to make this theater permanent, Pompey built a temple to Venus on top.

To the east of this theater was the Porticus of Pompey. On March 15, 44 B.C., it was here that Julius Caesar was murdered. If you want to see this spot, it occurred at the foot of the statue of Pompey where the Palazzo Spada now stands.

If you would like to read more about this, check out the Blue Guide Rome published by Somerset Norton.

Finding the Campo de'Fiori

When you reach the Termini Station in Rome, come out and face Piazza Cinquecento. Take a slight left and walk down Viale Einuadi. You will walk up to a circle containing the Piazza Della Repubblica. Take the Via Nazionale which you will find on the left of the circle. Follow the Via Nazionale until it ends and take a slight right down the Via IV Novembre. While you are walking down this road, you will pass the Galleria Colonna on the right. Continue down this road and it will become the Via del Plebiscito. On this road, you will pass the Galleria Doria Pamphilj on your right. Follow Via del Plebiscito until you see the tram. Turn left here on Via Arenula and look for Via del Giubbonari. Take a right here and follow this road until you run into the Campo de'Fiori.

When you get to the Campo de'Fiori, you will see a statue in the middle dedicated to Giordano Bruno, a martyr of science. If you get to the piazza early enough, you will be able to walk through a market containing fresh fruit, meat, and cheeses. This piazza is a very popular spot for nightlife among American students.

Giordano Bruno

The main statue in the Campo de'Fiori is dedicated to the philosopher Giordano Bruno who lived from 1548 to 1600. He initially went to school and became a priest and focused his studies mnemonic techniques. To avoid the Inquisition, he often fled cities and finally abandoned his order and became a Calvinist. As a scientist, he was often made fun of for believing that the earth does go around the sun. He tried to teach at universities throughout Europe, but only acquired positions at a few. He was eventually charged with blasphemy and heresy and sentenced to death. The statue was erected in 1889 and faces the Vatican. For more information or to see where this picture came from visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giordano_Bruno.


After reading further information, I have learned that Bruno's death made him a hero for anti-clerical liberals. Bruno traveled around Europe for fifteen years and was even a spy for the English government. He was eventually betrayed to the Romans by his hosts in Venice. He was sent back to Rome and was burned at the stake seven days later, right where his statue now stands. This information can be found in the Blue Guide Rome published by Somerset Norton.

The Campo de'Fiori in the Afternoon

When you have some free time in the afternoon, you should take a walk over to the Campo de'Fiori. You will be treated to see a transformation in the Piazza itself. Food vendors from the morning markets begin to break down their stands. Now more tourists are out and the shop vendors know this. Jackets that are ten euros early in the morning are now twelve. But don't worry, if you have luck like my friend and I did, they will have a special discount just for you.

Morning trash piles up while right next to it vendors lay out Prada and Gucci bags that are of course originals. The umbrellas are up in bars that had only served coffee in the mornings. And the scents of the day are out in full force. Walk down the road a little and smell the fresh fish market. There is a good chance you can already start to smell it from the Piazza. On the other hand, walk to the opposite corner of the market and smell the delicious goods Forno's is making today.

No matter what you choose to see in the afternoon, make sure you take the time to sit down and have gelato from one of the many small shops. While this is no Giolitti's, I find I can't refuse a scoop or two myself.

If you have more time, venture down some of the side streets. You will find nice designer clothes right next to discount stores. If you are looking for a relaxing afternoon, this is the place to come.

Some More Nightlife in the Campo

I have spent a few evenings in the Campo de'Fiori now and each time it is always the same. Street vendors, if they deserve that much of a name, always come up to men who are with women and try to sell roses. When our group from the CAS first got here, girls came home with honestly dozens of roses. Where do all of there roses come from? And how many of these roses go to waste? I have heard prices anywhere from a Euro for one to ten Euros for the whole bunch. While it may seem like a romantic gesture to buy your lady friend a rose, don't waste your time or money. Often times when you buy one good, these vendors continue to hassle you by offering lower prices on other goods.

Vendors sell other goods that range from dancing Minnie Mouses (maybe a good topic for a weblog about American products) all the way to light up glasses. While out recently, I saw an American man buy a pair of these glasses for ten Euro. The vendor continued to hassle him to buy other goods and would not leave our group. Once you attract attention, it is hard to lose it. While you may enjoy the little knick-knacks in the beginning of your stay in Rome, you will very quickly find yourself saying, "No, grazie."

It's a learning process

As newcomers to the city, it takes awhile to find the right places to go to for everything from eating throughout the day to relaxing at night. After our first week here, the CAS kids were all ready to have some find and find out where Italians go at night.

The Campo de'Fiori seemed like the place to go. Twenty of us all walked over for a nice dinner out. The meal did not end up being very ideal. I have learned very quickly about where to eat out and what to watch out for. Tourist menus may sound like something you would like, however this means that frozen food has been brought to the restaurants and is then heated up for you to eat. With the number of tourists attending certain spots, it the only way restaurants can keep up. But this food is often over-priced and not very good. Diners beware of popular tourist spots for eating as you will often fall victim to these tourist menus. Stick to smaller restaurants in less popular areas.

The Campo de'Fiori is full of nightlight and after dinner we experienced some of this first hand. The group traveled across the piazza to The Drunken Ship and Sloppy Sam’s. Immediately I knew these places were not where I wanted to be. Creepy old men stared at us while we walked in and Italian women were nowhere to be seen. While I had a good time with the CAS students, these places are not high up on my list to return to. If Italian women do not want to be at these bars then neither do you.

Background on Campo de'Fiori

The best place to start with the Campo de'Fiori is to learn about the history of the piazza. According to the Forno Campo de'Fiori, a bakery in the piazza, this piazza saw its fair share of festivities, but also gore. Executions were once performed in the square. Today, the fountain in the middle is dedicated to this and more specifically to Giordano Bruno. For more information about the bakery or to see their amazing pastries, visit their site at http://www.fornocampodefiori.com/storia.php. This will definitely be my next place to visit in the piazza.

If you want to visit the piazza, check out the map for its exact location: http://www.rome.info/map/. Make sure you look for Via dei Giubbonari because this road opens up to the piazza.

Ciao Bella Roma!

As I walked around the city in the past few days looking for a place to learn more about, the options seemed endless. I am in a city that contains 50% of the world’s artwork and other treasures. How am I going to see all of this and still learn about the city? The only way seems to be to find a place I can call my own.

I looked for a place where I could truly learn about the interactions of Italians. While there are 50 million visitors to Italy each year, there are still 4 million who call Rome their home. What makes these people unique? What do they do during the day and how do they relax? I have quickly learned that piazze are the best places to see this.

When I took an early walk yesterday, I found the Campo de'Fiori. I walked through the market and found my first place with a limited number of tourist shops. There were fruit vendors, others selling flowers, and even raw meat was available. There was confusion in Italian over costs. For the first time, few people knew English and I had to make my way through with some broken Italian. It was thrilling.

I decided to make this my place. I want to sit and watch the interactions of the people at various times of the day. I want to get to know the workers in the bars and find the best gelato there. I plan on getting to know the piazza inside and out. Piazze are an important part of Italian culture and I plan on doing my research to find out how this came about.